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 Topic  |
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ducattiman
Netherlands
87 Posts |
 Posted - February 21 2003 : 3:42:04 PM
Eh all,,Here is my question...Lets just say i hav some fiberglass big fender flares..there is no holes for pop-revits .no backets.no anything to bolt or hold the fg to the metal panel...so how do u bond the fg to the metal and to make it stong(so it does not fall off when u hit the first bump)....pls need info thx in advance |
ducattiman
Netherlands
87 Posts |
Posted - February 23 2003 : 4:33:20 PM
WTF... i am sorry am i in the right forum?????this kitcars right..sorry guys but how many people hav read this post and no can answer my question????
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paul lorenzo
USA
81 Posts |
Posted - February 23 2003 : 5:10:56 PM
Alright ducattiman, here you go. Use 60 grit on the metal and fiberglass. You have to ruff up the surfaces. You got to use silicone and wax remover before and after you sand. You want to use it before you sand because you dont want to imbed old wax and dirt due to sanding. After you bond the unit, use tapping screws from the fender flares into the metal. They might not go in straight, but your going to cut the heads off with a die grinder/cut off wheel. Fiberglass or bondo over the heads to mak them invisible.Hope this helps.
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ducattiman
Netherlands
87 Posts |
Posted - February 23 2003 : 5:50:04 PM
THANK YOU PAUL VERY MUCH FOR AT LEAST TO TAKE THE TIME TO ANSWER IT..now what kind of bond should i use(oh i know there must be at least 100's different stuff out on the market)...now with the flares pressed against the fenders there is no good space to add screws,,the flares r only about 1 mimeter thick and alot of the edges r on right angles to the fender /
/ ( back view)
| < fender
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/ ^
/ < flare hope u under stand the pic
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paul lorenzo
USA
81 Posts |
Posted - February 23 2003 : 7:01:25 PM
You going to`put the screw right throught the flair. At any angle. The screw is going to add strength. Now the screw should be protruding out of the flair. Thats ok. Your going to get your cutoff wheel and cut the head off, or whatever is sticking out. Use a filler to clean up the mess. You want the screws to be at the part where the flare meets the body. Who cares if theres no mounts. Go right through the flare. The screw aint going to show since your cutting it off. I prefer evercoat products personally. Any bondo like filler you use should have fiberglass strands in them like kittyhair. Thats a brand name. I got an excellent video tape on this kind of stuff. I am actually going to produce a video on this kind of work soon. Pm for more info.
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MADMIKE
140 Posts |
Posted - February 23 2003 : 10:40:52 PM
Ducattiman,did you get my e-mail?you can't just leave screws,even with the heads cut off,they will start to show through after you paint and finish your car,this was a problem with the way the bodies wwere put on the evo's,if you followed the manual,a month after you painted the car all the rivit heads start showing through the fiberglass over them as small circles in the paint.
mike
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paul lorenzo
USA
81 Posts |
Posted - February 24 2003 : 12:15:09 AM
I don't necessary agree with madmike, since we have been doing this kind of work for a while. Madmike does bring up a goodpoint I like to call shrinkage. Fortuneatly, most of the newer products have cured this problem with alot better materials than what we used in the 80's.
Thats why I am a big evercoat fan. I also warn you to stay away from any`product that does not use a catalyst. It will shrink and show up in your paint job. Back to the point, you dont just want to cut the head off flush, you need to dig into with your wheel so its beneath the surface. Make sure you use a sealer when you paint, and I dont see any problems. I think were madmike disagreed with me is maybe he thought I meant just cut the bolts flush. They got to be cut underneath the surface a bit. Use flat countersunk bolts, and put a little fiberglass resin on the other side(pointy side) to keep it from backing out. It something is going to hit it(the pointy side) like a tire, then your going to have to cut this side flush also. Hope this helps.
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MADMIKE
140 Posts |
Posted - February 25 2003 : 12:52:02 PM
Paul,i've been doing nothing but fiberglass repair for 30 years,and any cut off screw,or countersunk rivet,no matter what you put over it will eventually print through.might take days,months,or even years,but it will,it has to do with the different expansion rates of the rivet or screw ,and the original part and what you put over it.
MIKE
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paul lorenzo
USA
81 Posts |
Posted - February 26 2003 : 01:51:38 AM
Madmike, I do not doubt your abilities. You got me beat in years experience. Ive been doing bodywork since 1985. Unlike other members on this forum who quote peoples words and act like they know it all,
I am not going to go there. I learned the hardway, but also the best way...by mistakes in the past. I live in arizona, and the heat is extremely hard on bodywork. I have not had any problems with rivets or screws coming up in the paint, but I make sure if I use them, I got plenty of room on top of the head to fill them. I believe the products I use are the main reason for no expansion. There are alot of products that will shrink on you and ruin your paint job. So Mike no offense at all! Paul
The best tape on custom work is put out by z-therapy. It covers shrinkage also. I do not know if there still in business, but I got a copy of the tape if anyone wants to use it.
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BondoBob
USA
45 Posts |
Posted - March 01 2003 : 07:46:23 AM
I agree with Mike,screws are out unless you use them just to hold the peices together,and when everything is cured,take them out and fill the holes.I recomend grinding the metal till its bare,sand the fiberglass part where it mates to the metal,and use 3M's pannel bonding epoxy,Its strong(Most dealear's approve of this method of quarter pannel replacement)and it also sands and fethers nicely.Thats the way I would do it if it was MY CAR.(or anybody elses car for that matter)
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Filip
USA
84 Posts |
Posted - March 02 2003 : 4:44:17 PM
I agree with Bondobob. I won't "pretend" to know anything about this... but some Diablo replica ppl I talk to have had good experiences with 3M window adhesive. It bonds to both metal and fiberglass, and will be flexible enough to give when the metal expands. Speaking from my experience (and I think we can all agree on this one), metal does expand at a different rate than fiberglass. You will also have some chassis flex, no matter how rigid you try to build your chassis. Fiberglass has a low tolerance for flex...and doing a hard mount (glassing in bolts without any rubber spaces etc) may shorten the life of your body. I'm sure people have done it other ways and they haven't had any problems... but this is just what I'd do. --------------
my site http://www.statikdesign.com/scratchbuilt/ |
dave114
195 Posts |
Posted - March 03 2003 : 5:17:10 PM
I don't pretend to know everything about Fiber glass, but after building a couple of racing boats, I have a fair idea. First of all, it all depends on the screws you use. If you use marine standard stainless screws, you will not have a problem. After you have recessed the screws, put a little silicon in the recess then filler. In the event of expansion, this will have a little give so it will not push the filler outwards and crack or deform the paintwork.
Filip, if you want an engine for your falcon that is reliable and can make insane amounts of power all day, RB26DETT or RB26DET from the Skyline GTR or GTSt.
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BondoBob
USA
45 Posts |
Posted - March 03 2003 : 5:28:21 PM
The pannel bond is strong enough to not need screws to help it.If you want to keep the stinking screws in there,go ahead.Dont make me say,I told you so.
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FG to Metal How to bond??
